By Harlen Persinger, 2018 IFAJ Stipend Recipient
The special cows are Fire Red cattle, a sober, strong and easy animal that belongs to the rare pet breeds. They are dark red with a white col, tail tip and legs. It is a very old breed will only 1,000 animals left in existence.
Husband and wife, Arjan and Karina Schermer, have been operating Brandrood — their cheese farm on the picturesque rural estate “Kernhem” in Ede, the Netherlands —since October 2016.
They had been toying with the idea of starting a farm for some time, preferably with goats of a rare breed. But then someone told them about cheese farm Brandrood. Its founder, Michiel Cassuto, was looking for another party to take over the farm.
“We had to become accustomed to the ideas that we were going to milk cows, not goats,” Arjan says. “This rare breed suited us, and now we realize we made the right choice because these animals are robust animals with a pleasant character.”
Cows coming through the parlor are milked twice a day.
The couple love the way their farm is organized: a compact business with 20 cows and pastures surrounding their monumental farm Engelenhove, situated in the middle of the traditional, rural region of the Doesburger Eng. “This old and rare breed is kept for two reasons. While they don’t give a lot of milk, it’s not quantity we’re after. What counts is the unique, Gruyere-style farmhouse cheese we produce, “he adds.
Cheese is made at a higher temperature and with a special starter culture. During the ripening process, cheese is stored on pine shelves at a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius. It is turned and washed with salted water every other day, which, together with a red mould, gives it a natural rind and extra flavor. The method of preparation is traditional and labor-intensive, but gives a unique flavor to the cheese.
The milk of the biologically Fire Rodes is extremely suitable for making cheese because of it high protein content.
“In our Brandrood organic cheese you taste the character and the robust, warm but softness of this variety that we want to maintain in our unique location,” Arjan notes.
The Schermer family sells some of the cheese in their own quaint farm shop, but most of it ends up on the shelves of wholefoods and specialist shops. It is important to them to maintain direct contact with the shopkeepers so that then can pass on the story of the cheese and farm to their customers. Wholesale cheese supplier Vandersterre Groep is also selling the Brandrood cheese.
Cheese preparation starts in the special red copper cheese tub, and is a process in which the authenticity, warmth and rustic character of the cows is expressed.
While the enterprise is successful, modest plans are on tap for the future. To add their personal touch to the farm, the couple want to introduce even more herbs and flowers to the grass. The richer the grass, the richer the cheese. Also, since 2017 they have decided to leave some calves with each mother. And to reduce their carbon footprint, they are planning to place solar panels on the roof.
This is a hard cheese with a natural washed crust featuring a distinct flavor, soft nutty with a firm after taste.
Fire red cheese remains on the shelf under the Schermer’s care for an average of 12 months before it is ever tasted.
All of the cheese is made on Engelenhove, one of the four farms on the estate “Kernhem” in Ede. The farm originated in 1652 and is designated as a national monument.